Our paragliding and luge adventure topped off our adrenaline for a few days so we were ready to head out of thrill-seeking Queenstown. The countryside is so vast and without getting out of the car, you lose perspective on how truly big the mountains are or how expansive the sheep pastures can be. We found a stable for Audrey and Nina to explore the area on horseback.
Jill and Mike found their own adventure trolling the grocery store, where they found tasty local lamb, fresh herbs and salmon for dinner. They were amused by the shelves of vegemite and the entire sausage cooler.
NZ has lots of sheep intestines available for sausage casings |
From Queenstown near the center of the South Island we drove to the west coast to the spectacular region aptly called Fjordland. On the way we passed only 2 towns—each with a population of under 200. We certainly did see some sheep, although Audrey says “the lack of sheep is the least disappointing disappointment of the trip.”
When we arrived at Te Anau, we dumped our stuff and headed for the weird but intriguing sounding Glow Worm Caves. We took a boat to the other side of the lake where we met a guide who told us about these strange insect larvae that live on the ceiling of the dark caves and emit phosphorescent blue light to attract their prey. We then crept through the wet cave for about 15 minutes until we reached a cavern. Then, admonished to be perfectly quiet, we got in a gondola and floated into the absolute blackness. But it wasn’t completely dark: above us were tiny twinkling lights like the crowded constellations of the southern hemisphere sky. Weird but marvelous.
![]() |
| The Glow Worm Cave felt like a Disney ride |
| The whole town glowed |
That night, at about 9:30 pm, the whole town strolled down to the beach and we saw the most beautiful sunset we've ever seen.
The next day was highlight of the trip to Fjordland. We got up early for a full day expedition that started with a boat ride across Lake Manapouri, then a bus over the Wilmot Pass , and finally another boat for a 3 hour cruise experiencing the beauty and majesty of Doubtful Sound. This inlet along the ocean, like its cousin Milford Sound, in actually a fjord. (A sound is formed by rivers cutting through the mountains, a fjord is formed by retreating glaciers.)
| Doubtful Sound--so named because you doubt you'll every find your way out |
The extremely steep mountains were punctuated by occasional waterfalls that fill the lake with fresh water that floats on top of the dense salt water. At one point the captain turned off the engines and we could hear only the rushing of the water and occasional bird. It was majestic and definitely worth the special trip.
At the end of the boat ride we stopped at the remote hydro-electric power plant that supplies power to the South Island as well as all of the energy needs for an aluminum smelting plant several hundred miles away. This engineering masterpiece was built to utilize the energy from the drop between the mountain lake and the sea level fjord. Bauxite from mines in Australia is shipped to New Zealand to be processed by this cheap source of energy. The carbon emissions from the plant "disperse" across the sea.
